她是如何做到让中国运动服更酷的?

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现在的中国有最棒的生产力,最大的市场,卖最多的货,但缺乏高端、有创造性、全球化的服装品牌——如果上一代人的想象力不足以创造这样的品牌,就让年轻人来。
 
Particle Fever(粒子狂热,以下称PF),是这家运动服装品牌的名字,2015年10月上线。品牌名称来源于几位主创都很喜欢的一部纪录片——《粒子狂热》(Particle Fever),讲的是世界上迄今为止最贵的一个实验:1000多个科学家试图通过巨大的对撞机寻找一个叫Higgs的宇宙最小粒子。
PF以“运动穿着实验场”为核心与口号,希望像物理学家那样探索未知,用实验态度设计运动穿着品牌,不贴标签,拒绝盲从,从艺术、科技和文化的多元视角实践一切和运动穿着有关的先锋计划。
用更高级的时装语言表达运动服
从履历来看,PF创始人九斤是人们口中“别人家的孩子”:高中拿到奥赛金牌进北大法律系,后出国留学到哈佛法学院继续深造,毕业前后在各大律所实习、工作。
专业律师的培训训练出了九斤工作时规范化、逻辑性的素养,但是一位职业律师怎么就转行做运动服装品牌了呢?
九斤是江苏江阴人,江阴市民营经济发达,制造业强,既有海澜之家、阳光集团等品牌和集团,也有各种服装代工厂。用九斤的话说,“我们那一片都是做服装生意的”,包括九斤的家人。耳濡目染,九斤从小就对服装行业的基本运转流程非常熟悉。
而喜爱音乐、擅操各种乐器的爸爸和热爱小众电影、独立电影的妈妈,则培养了九斤对艺术和创造的热爱。
九斤还喜爱赛艇和搏击。运动中她发现,自己对运动衣的需求得不到满足:衣服面料的剪裁和科技感不够好;设计风格上也不高级,“太像运动服了,一穿上就感觉我要去健身房。”
“还有很多样式一味追求性感,不够高级。露个胸就好看了?不一定。运动服也可以用高级时装语言去表达。”九斤说。
九斤想要的衣服市面上没有,她等不及别人来做,于是就自己动手了。
“我可能很早就想做一件自己的事业,创业的契机是我遇到了现在的合伙人,林海和Renata,督促我做PF。”
林海,1989年生人,PF联合创始人、创意总监,毕业于纽约帕森设计学院,时装作品多次被Lady Gaga穿上身。林海曾在Kering合作项目中为PUMA进行创意策划,这次经历让他发现,运动服装需要对人体研究更充分,对新面料的科技感要求更高,可以打破服装设计的禁锢进行新的尝试,而如果把高级时装语言带进运动服装设计里,会出现意想不到的化学效果。
COO Renata曾任GLOSSYBOX中国区运营总监,有十多年相关运营经验。热爱极限运动,擅长滑雪、水肺潜水和骑行。
“我们三个人相识已久,在爱好、审美与价值观上志同道合。做PF这件事可以完成我们很多梦想。当然,从商业层面来讲,这也是一个契机,功能性和审美相统一的运动服在现阶段是大家会喜欢的一个方向。”九斤说。
做好“运动穿着实验场”品牌
用户定位上,PF瞄准的族群是中产往上,有一定消费能力和独立审美品味,追求调性的一群人。PF用足够高级、优质和有创意的产品对接这批消费者的需求。
PF上线之初,市场上流行荧光色运动装,PF在设计上做好自己的表达之外,故意使用黑灰色,逆市场潮流而行,产品推出后效果非常好。
九斤得出结论:很多时候审美能力是被低估的,不一定要迎合大家,做好产品,吸引到目标族群就够了。
目前,PF的客单价是1300元,从A轮融资到现在销量涨了10倍,月流水几百万元。
作为一个线上线下打通的初创品牌,更需要稳扎稳打和综合能力:产品组合需要稳定,团队需要磨合,做服装品牌在工业上扎得更深,供应链的厂商、支持方、运动商……太多的事情需要时间去顺。
“我们慢慢做,起码10年、15年是OK的,这件事在我来说心态上比较平稳。”九斤告诉邦哥,PF现阶段最有成就感的事是品牌调性的建立,而非单纯追求利润。
所以当人们把 PF 归在消费升级类型里时,九斤认为不止如此 :“高质量的生产力都在中国。以前中国人的钱好赚,都是在卖货,靠走量就OK,我自己会觉得蛮遗憾的。我认为中国人需要一个有调性的一线品牌。”
这一份诉诸品牌建立的理想,比消费升级更进一步。
PF有一个“三不”原则——不讲故事、不打折、不露脸,围绕“运动穿着实验场”进行品牌塑造。
内嵌式内裤结构的运动legging、秒干的T恤、流动的运动背心、突破界限的大卫霍克尼印花,以及高强防紫外线的紧身款……PF打破了固化的运动穿着设计,在功能面料甚至价值观上都走得更前卫。
除去产品上的前卫和先锋,在营销层面,PF在上线之初就以一镜到底的创意影片在微信平台上推出了内嵌式内裤结构的无痕运动紧身裤这款单品。据介绍,那组视频的浏览量在三小时内就达到7万,紧身裤也快速售罄,视频的绝大多数点击者和传播者则成了日后品牌的第一批用户。
特立独行的PF连自拍都要玩出格调。九斤和哈佛校友一起做了一个“粒子装置”,利用多镜面成像呈现出身体不同的部分,好像人被粒子化了,以更高级的方式表现自己的体态。
PF还选择一些气质独特的小众运动达人拍摄宣传视频,和艺术家合作装置艺术并加入PF的理念和品牌露出,改造运动器械让运动更有趣、带领大家享受运动本身……PF从不花钱专门做推广,也不盲目启用网红、明星做代言,而是用先锋、艺术的态度做与品牌调性相符的“实验”,让品牌自己宣传自己。
九斤告诉邦哥,PF是第一个进驻连卡佛的高端运动设计品牌。
作为亚洲顶级买手平台,成功进驻连卡佛对PF来说意味着对自身产品质量、调性、设计理念、差异化等各方面的认可。连卡佛对PF的评语是:“站在艺术、科技和互联网交互的地方,用反常规的手法解读运动。”
九斤最喜欢的设计师是日本的川久保玲。这位天才设计师用超越一国之界的设计语言诠释着自己的风格,她的作品放在世界任何角落都极具光芒,更通过商业手段带领一批日本优秀设计师走向世界。这是九斤所欣赏的,也是带给PF启发的:让艺术和商业完美结合,中国运动服装可以更酷。

Now China has the best productivity, the largest market, sold the most goods, but the lack of high-end, creative, globalization garment brand, if the imagination of a generation is not enough to create such a brand, let young people to.
Particle Fever (particle mania, hereinafter referred to as PF), is the name of the sportswear brand, on-line in October 2015. The brand name comes from a few creative love is a documentary - "fever" (Particle Fever) particle, is about an experiment by far the world's most expensive: more than 1 thousand scientists trying to find a huge collider called Higgs universe smallest particle.
PF "movement wearing experiments" as the core and slogan, hope to explore the unknown like physicists, wearing the brand with the experimental design of motion attitude, label, refused to follow, from multiple perspectives of art, technology and culture and sports practice all the pioneer plan in.
Using a more advanced fashion language to express sportswear
From the resume, the founder of PF, is nine pounds in the mouths of other people's children: high school got Olympic gold medal into the law department of Beijing University, after studying abroad to Harvard Law School to continue their studies after graduation in the law practice and work.
Training and training of professional lawyers out of the work of nine kilograms of standardized, logical quality, but a professional lawyer how to switch to do sports apparel brand?
Nine pounds is Jiangsu Jiangyin, Jiangyin private economy developed, strong manufacturing sector, both sea orchid house, sunshine group and other brands and groups, there are a variety of garment oem. With nine pounds of words, we are doing a piece of clothing business, including the family of nine pounds. One nine pounds from the basic operation process of the apparel industry is very familiar with.
The love of music, good at all kinds of musical instruments and the love of the father of a small minority of the film, the mother of independent film, it raises nine pounds of love of art and creativity.
Nine pounds also like rowing and fighting. She found themselves on sports, sports clothes can not meet the needs of clothing fabric cutting and sense of science and technology is not good enough; the design style is not high, "too much like sportswear, wearing a feeling I'm going to the gym."
"There are a lot of styles to pursue sexy, not high. A chest on the good-looking? Not always。 Sports clothes can also be expressed in high fashion language." Nine Jin said.
Nine pounds of clothes on the market do not want, she can not wait for others to do, and then do it yourself.
"I may have long wanted to do one's own business, the opportunity to start a business is that I met the current partner, Lin and Renata, urging me to do PF."
Lin, born in 1989, PF co-founder and creative director, Parson graduated from the New York School of design, fashion and many of her works were wearing Lady Gaga. Linhai had Kering project for PUMA creative planning, this experience, he found that more research on human sports clothing needs, new fabrics of sense of technology is more demanding, can break the clothing design new attempt, and if the high fashion language into sports clothing design, will chemical effect of unexpected.
COO Renata served as director of operations in China, GLOSSYBOX, has more than and 10 years of operational experience. Love extreme sports, good at skiing, scuba diving and riding.
"The three of us have known each other for a long time, and we have the same interests, tastes and values. PF this thing can accomplish many of our dreams. Of course, from a business perspective, this is also an opportunity, functional and aesthetic unity of the sportswear at this stage is that we will like a direction." Nine Jin said.
Do a good job "sports wear experimental field" brand
User positioning, PF aimed at the upper middle class, there is a certain degree of spending power and independent aesthetic taste, the pursuit of tonality of a group of people. PF with high quality, high quality and innovative products to meet the needs of these consumers.
At the beginning of the PF line, the market popular fluorescent sportswear, PF in the design to do their own expression, the use of black gray, contrary to the trend of the market, the product after the introduction of the effect is very good.
Nine pounds come to the conclusion: a lot of time the aesthetic ability is underestimated, do not have to cater to everyone, do a good job, to attract the target population is enough.
Currently, PF customer price is 1300 yuan, from the A round of financing to now sales rose by up to 10 times, a few million yuan monthly water.
As an open up online and offline start-up brands need more steady and comprehensive ability: product portfolio need stability, team need to run, do the clothing brand in the industry run deeper, supply chain vendors, support, taking exercise...... Too many things need time to go.
We do slowly, at least 10 years, 15 years is OK, this thing in my mind is relatively stable." Nine pounds told state brother, PF at this stage the most sense of accomplishment is the establishment of the brand tonality, rather than simply the pursuit of profit.
So when people put PF in the consumer upgrade type, nine pounds think more than that: "high quality productivity in china. Before Chinese Qian Haozhuan, are sellers, by taking the amount of OK, I will feel very sorry. I think the Chinese need a brand with a line of tonality."
This appeal to the establishment of an ideal brand, more expensive than the upgrade.
PF has a "three no" principle - do not tell the story, not discounted, faceless, around the "sports wear experimental field" brand.
Built in underwear structure for sports legging, second dry T-shirt, flowing sports vest, breakthrough line David Hockney print